North Shore Magazine Taste of a World Gourmet Gala IV May, 2000

When it comes to defining a cooking style, that of chef Gabriel Viti is, in a word "robust." He does not shy away from intense, up-front flavors. If his were a visual rather than gusatorial art, there would be no doubt about colors and patterns.

Viti spends the evenings working the dining room, greeting guests individually as they arrive and overseeing the general operation of his restaurant. I am sure he also is keeping an eye on the open kitchen, where assistants man the preparation line, stove and ovens. The restaurant has a stylish contemporary flair, but like the cooking, it's not cutting edge. As contemporary as the dining room looks, there is still room for glass panels with art deco style etchings. Broad, muted stripes mark the comfortable, upholstered chairs and banquets.

Like most newer restaurants, Gabriel's is noisy with little in the way of sound-damping wall coverings. It is, however, elegant in a restrained and almost formal manner that is best reflected in the excellent and attentive service.

Chef Viti sharpened his culinary spurs at nearby Carlos' some years back, then spent some time in Europe and finally returned home to open the restaurant that carries his name. The menu is Mediterranean. Though an Italian influence is clearly evident, it is not overwhelming. Viti is open to a number of new ideas, among them salmon pastrami, which he readily admits comes from an outside purveyor and is not cured in his own kitchen. Whatever its origins, it is a delightfully flavorful approach, reminiscent of pastrami but with texture of fresh, cured salmon. Slices are arranged on a bed of arugala, splashed with a good balsamic vinaigrette.

Elsewhere within the list of hot and cold appetizers, chicken liver mousse is wrapped in a brioche crust; a Greek-influenced shrimp is served with tomato-tinged horseradish sauce, while wild mushrooms are cooked down into a ragout with asparagus, shallots and cream for a rich sauce. Speaking of mushrooms, the portobello is grilled, sliced into strips and given a quick finish with an accompaniment of deliciously roasted sweet red peppers and balsamic vinegar. With a nod to the classics, beef carpaccio is presented with shavings of Parmesan cheese and a brushing of extra virgin olive oil. Bowing to French cuisine, snails are sautéed in garlic butter and presented out of their shells on a bed of spinach. An extra flourish of garlic underscores Viti's sturdy approach to the culinary art.

Since Gabriel's is not strictly an Italian restaurant, its pastas are not meant as a separate course; rather they're complex enough to stand on their own as entrees. And there are some delicious selections. Risotto is prepared with smoky chunks of chicken, plus spinach and roasted red peppers. This may be one instance in which Viti's style is a little heavy-handed. The red pepper taste dominated the dish, though one person in our party ordered it without the chicken, which might otherwise have brought more balance to the recipe.

In other pasta selections, rigatoni is served with spicy Italian sausage and a tomato basil sauce; finger-length penne is the foundation for asparagus, melted mozzarella cheese and a rich tomato and garlic cream sauce; and linguini and shrimp with asparagus and tomatoes is delicate and light in approach and style.

Gabriel's meat and seafood selections are certainly in Chef Viti's fine dining repertoire. Venison is a wonderful alternative to beef for those watch their fat and cholesterol intake. The recipe here includes roasted slices of meat with a mound of butternut squash puree and a syrupy reduction of port wine and meat juices, which makes for a wonderful sauce. Another hard-hitting winner is the grilled veal chop; a lovely cut of meat plated with mushrooms and a perfumed rosemary sauce. Capon, which to my way of thinking brings variety to ordinary chicken, is rolled with slices of prosciutto and mushrooms, while a handsome rack of lamb is presented with a side of ratatouille and the lovely scent and flavor of thyme sauce.

As for seafood, Gabriel's takes Chilean sea bass and roasts it in a paper wrapping to hold in its liquids. A simple lemon and herb vinaigrette adds some flavor to the dish. Other fish selections include roasted salmon and scallops with lemon sauce, and a whole roasted trout wrapped in a broad slice of pancetta and plated with mushrooms for a decidedly different take on this popular fish.

In addition to the a' la carte menu, Gabriel's offers a $45 per person degustation, which includes a four-course tasting. Desserts include a snappy-tasting ginger mousse, which is a wonderful flavor to wrap up an evening. The wine list is excellent, as is service and attention to detail. Gabriel's has a K/RATING of 19/20.

AMBIENCE & DÉCOR 3.5/4
SERVICE 5/5
FOOD 9.5/10
VALUE 1/1